With a changing body and growing belly, you will need clothes that you feel comfortable and confident in. You don't have to buy sewing patterns specifically for maternity wear. You can choose a pattern you like, make a few changes and end up with a good looking garment in a pattern you know you love and that will fit you and your bump.
Choosing the fabric
You want to choose a fabric that is soft and have at least 70% crosswise and lengthwise stretch (choosing a fabric with over 70% stretch will allow for a softer feeling and you will be able to wear it longer as your baby is growing. Stay away from fabrics with high compression as you don't want the waistband to hug too tight around you belly.
I particularly like the Synergy Polyester Lycra fabric from Bluemoon as it is soft to the touch and have more than 70% crosswise stretch.
If you want to reduce bulk at the seams you can make the inner waistband in a mesh.
Two maternity style waistband hacks
In this tutorial I have included two waistband hacks, one that sits on the belly and one that will cover the belly.
LEAH LEGGINGS - ADJUSTING THE WAISTLINE ON THE LEG PIECE
As the belly grows it is more comfortable to have the waist seam curved under your belly. We will therefore lower the waist seam on the leg piece 6-7 cm (2.4"-2.75") at center front.
Start drawing slightly behind the side notch and make a smooth curve to the dropped waist seam at center front. Transfer the side notch to the new waist seam.
Cut at the new waistline.
NIKKI SHORTS - ADJUSTING THE WAISTLINE ON THE LEG AND POCKET PIECES
Mark the seam line on the upper pocket, lower pocket and front leg pieces.
As the belly grows it is more comfortable to have the waist seam curved under your belly. We will therefore lower the waist seam on the leg piece 6-7 cm (2.4"-2.75") at center front. (The instructions are the same regardless of the inseam length).
Fold away the seam allowance on the upper pocket. Match up the seam line on the upper pocket and the front leg. Tape in place to make it easier to draw the new waist seam.
Start drawing slightly behind the side notch and make a smooth curve to the dropped waist seam at center front. Transfer the side notch to the new waist seam.
Separate the front leg and upper pocket.
On the upper pocket, measure from the original waistline down to the new waistline. Record measurement. In this example, the measurement is 3 cm (1.2"). Move the top notch down the same amount, and cross out the original notch. Do the same for the top notch on the front leg piece.
Measure from the top of the lower pocket, down to the amount you recorded. In this example it is 3 cm (1.2").
Make a mark at the seam line. Draw a straight line from the mark you just made to the top of the other side of the pocket. Place a notch 1 cm (3/8") below the new pocket line
Square across the seam allowance and cut at the new waistline.
ADJUSTING THE WAISTBAND
Extend the center front on the waistband with the same amount you did at center front on the (front) leg piece (6-7 cm (2.4"-2.75")). Draw a smooth curve from the side seam down to the bottom of the new the center front.
To add length, cut the waistband in half lengthwise.
Spread apart with your preferred length. For this example, I have used 6 cm (2.4") for an on belly look and 15,5 cm (6.1") for an over the belly look. Add paper underneath and draw straight lines at the center front and side seams.
Cut out the pieces.
Assemble the waistband as stated in the instructions. The only exception is that you will gather the side seams of the front waistband piece(s) to match the length of the back waistband piece(s).
You are now ready to sew your maternity leggings/shorts!