Breastfeeding friendly clothes often focuses on function first, and style second. But with a few small adjustments many everyday garments can work just as well for nursing.
In this post, I'm sharing a simple breastfeeding hack for the Zoe half zip! The modification adds a horizontal zipper across the bust for easy access. For a more subtle look, the zipper can be finished with a placket to help it blend into the design.
Whether you're breastfeeding, sewing for someone who is, or just interested in making your clothes more versatile, this is an easy hack to try.
SHOP THE ZOE HALF ZIP
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS
To make room for the zipper we need to remove 1 cm (3/8") from the top edge of the lower front piece. If you are adding pockets you also need to remove 1 cm (3/8") from the top edge of the pocket back.
Note: If you are making the hip or long length - remove 1 cm (3/8") from the top edge of the pocket front as well.
Note: If you are making the cropped length, you may want to omit the zipper pockets.
EXTRA SUPPLIES AND PATTERN PIECES
Cut out all pieces as instructed in the instructions. In addition to these, you will also need:
- 2 pairs (4 total) of the zipper tab (2 shell, 2 lining) - for the horizontal zipper
- A zipper placket (shell) - note that if you are using a bulky shell fabric the seam with the zipper placket will be very thick and bulky so you may want to use a lighter weight fabric to reduce bulk
- Length: 6 cm (2 3/8")
- Width: width of the top edge of the lower front piece (if you cut on fold, use this measurement. If you cut flat, multiply the measurement by 2)
- Double slide zipper - the visible length of the zipper will be 6 cm (2 3/8") shorter than the width of the zipper placket (Y). Example: the width of the zipper placket is 56 cm (22"). The zipper will be visible by 50 cm (19 5/8").
- Regular zipper
- If you can find a closed-end zipper with this measurement, proceed to the next step (example 1).
- If you cannot find a closed-end zipper with this measurement, choose a zipper that is at least 2 cm (3/4") longer than the visible zipper measurement. In this example you will need a zipper that is at least 52 cm (20 1/2") long (example 2).
- If you are using zipper by the meter/yard, add 2 cm (3/4") to the measurement. In this example cut the zipper to 52 cm (20 1/2") long (example 3)
- Regular zipper
ASSEBLY
Sew according to the sewing instructions steps 1-11. Before sewing step 12, follow the instructions below.
PREPARE THE HORIZONTAL ZIPPER AND ZIPPER TABS
If you have a closed-end zipper with the Y measurement (zipper example 1), make a mark 1 cm away from the zipper stop at the top and bottom of the zipper.
If you have a zipper that is longer than the Y measurement (zipper example 2), measure from the zipper stop Y + 1 cm (3/8") and make a mark. Sew a bar tack over the zipper teeth just above the mark, within 1 cm (3/8") from the mark.
Tip: Go slow or use the hand wheel to make sure the needle goes over the zipper teeth to not break your needle.
Cut away the excess of the zipper by the mark.
If you are using zipper by the meter/yard, continue to the next step.
Finish the long edges of the zipper tabs.
ZIPPER TABS TO ZIPPER
Place the shell zipper tab right side to the right side of the zipper, and the lining zipper tab right side to the wrong side of the zipper. Match up the raw edge of the zipper tab with the marks on the zipper tape and/or with the raw edge of the zipper tab.
Sew using a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance. Cut the seam allowance of the lining down to half its width. Press the zipper tab down over the seam allowance. Baste the bottom of the zipper tab together within the 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.
ZIPPER TO LOWER FRONT
Finish the raw edge of the top edge of the lower front.
Place the zipper and the lower front right sides together. Match up the raw edges and the zipper tape with the raw edge of the lower front. Sew using a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the lower front.
If you are using a bulky fabric, trim the seam allowance of the lower bodice down to about half its width. The raw edge will be sandwiched between the zipper tape and lower front and therefore wont fray. Topstitch the seam allowance and zipper tape down 6 mm (1/4") away from the edge.
ZIPPER PLACKET (OPTIONAL)
Finish the raw edge of the upper bodice piece.
Fold the placket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
Place the upper bodice and zipper placket right sides together. Match up the raw edges. Sew using a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.
UPPER FRONT TO LOWER FRONT
Place the upper front and lower front right sides together. The zipper placket is sandwiched between the upper front and the zipper on the lower front. Sew using a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.
Trim down the seam allowance on the zipper placket to different widths to reduce bulk.
Press the seam allowance toward the upper front. The zipper placket will be pressed toward the lower front and will cover the zipper.
Note: If you are using bulky fabrics this seam may be very thick. It may be hard to press the seam allowance away from the upper front. Do you best and trim the seam allowance the best you can to get the fabrics to lay as flat as possible.
Topstitch the seam allowance and zipper tape 3-6 mm (1/8"-1/4") away from the edge. The distance is personal preference and may also depend on the bulk of the seam allowances.
Tip: If you can't catch the zipper tape when you're topstitching on the collar due to too much bulk, you can hand stitch the zipper tape in place on the inner collar.
Add cord or binding to the zipper pull to make it easier to find and open the zipper.
Continue sewing at step 13 in the sewing instructions!
I hope you or your loved one loved the breastfeeding friendly Zoe half zip! If you share your make on Instagram, please tag me (@michelledesignco), I would love to see it!