The Zoe is an oversized half zip with no front shaping. Because it's oversized, you might not need any adjustments. However, sometimes even roomy/oversized garments can benefit from adding a full bust adjustment (FBA). When a garment sits over a fuller bust, it needs extra length and width to hang correctly, even if the overall style is loose and relaxed.
Below I'll walk you though how to make a FBA while adding shaping to improve the fit and balance.
SHOP THE ZOE HALF ZIP
WHAT SIZE TO CHOOSE
The Zoe Half Zip is designed with a B-cup in mind. That means that the difference between the upper bust and full bust is 5 cm (2"). Measure your upper bust and full bust and record measurements and the difference between the two. Choose the bust size based on your upper bust measurement.
The reason why you want to choose a size based on your upper bust is because it ensures that the garment will fit well through the neck and shoulders. Adding the FBA to this size will then create enough room and length for the garment to sit well over your bust and body.
For example: Your upper bust is 112 cm (44") and your full bust is 127 cm (50"). Choose your size based on your upper bust measurement. Since the Zoe Half Zip is drafted for a B-cup you will choose size L for the base size. Size L has a full bust of is 117 cm (46") and upper bust of 112 cm (44") -> because 117 - 5 = 112 cm (46 - 2 = 44").
HOW TO CALCULATE THE AMOUNT FOR THE FBA
Since the pattern is drafted for a B-cup, meaning a difference is 5 cm (2") between the upper and full bust. In the example above you have a difference of 15 cm (6"), you will therefore need to add a total of 10 cm (4") to the pattern for your FBA -> because 15 - 5 = 10 cm (6 - 2 = 4").
Divide the total difference by 2 as you will do the adjustment to one half of the front bodice -> 10 / 2 = 5 cm (4 / 2 = 2")
To summarize: You will work on size L because it corresponds with your upper bust measurement, and you will add 5 cm (2") for your FBA.
HOW TO DO THE FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
ON THE BODICE
1. On the upper front piece, draw the seam line 1 cm (3/8") away from the edge on the bottom, front and armscye.
2. Draw a line from the armscye to the front bottom corner.
3. Draw two lines perpendicular to the bottom edge. The first line should be at the marked corner point and the second line should be placed the distance away needed for your FBA. In the example above, that is 5 cm (2").
4. Cut from the bottom edge, through the line that goes to the armscye, leaving a hinge at the armscye seam line.
5. Place a paper underneath and spread the lower part of the Side Front piece open until you hit the second perpendicular line.
6. Draw a line from the bottom corner, that you spread open, toward the front. The line should be perpendicular with the bust adjustment lines (green). Draw another line, extending the front edge down toward the bottom line you just drew.
7. Measure how much length is added to the Side Front. Record the measurement (X).
8. From the bottom line you just drew, make a smooth curve to the side seam. You don't need to add a lot of space to this curve, your main goal is to make the transition smooth and not end up with a sharp corner where the two lines meet.
9. Cut out your new Side Front piece. Note that the bottom edge will now be longer than the Lower Front, you want to add the same amount to the Lower Front.
10. Add the width used for your FBA (in this example 5 cm (2")) to the side seam on the lower front piece. Make a smooth curve to the side seam. If you blended the new line to below the notch, you want to add width to the pocket back piece as well.
ON THE COLLAR
11. On the Collar, draw a perpendicular line to the grainline. Cut at the line, making the Collar into two pieces.
12. With a piece of paper underneath, draw an extended line from the front edge of the Collar.
13. Match up the lower piece of the Collar with the extended front line. From the cut line, move it down the recorded amount (X) you measured in step 7.
14. Draw a line from the other edge of the Collar to the bottom right corner.
15. Cut out your new collar piece.
Cut out your Zoe Half Zip and start sewing!
If you want to share your Zoe Half Zip on Instagram please use the hashtag #mdczoehalfzip, and if you want to make it easier for me to find your beautiful new half zip, please tag me @michelledesignco. I can't wait to see it!